If you had to pick just five skincare products from your local drugstore or Sephora, which would you opt for? If this question gives you a long pause to think, or you can honestly say: “I have no idea!” (in a panicked tone, perhaps), you’re not alone. The skincare industry is a savvy one that employs countless marketing tactics. TikTok videos alone might have you believing you need a 12-step skincare regimen in your life, one filled with essential oil toners, snail mucin serums, and any number of exfoliants.
But don’t be distracted. You CAN create the best skincare routine imaginable using nothing more than five ingredients that doctors like Board-Certified Plastic Surgeon Dr. Amir Karam say are worth their weight in gold. As Dr. Karam explains in this video, our collagen and elastin reach their peak at age 27 before declining. What this means is that augmenting this loss with effective ingredients that really work is important if you want to best skin at any age.
Here are his picks for the most important five “secret” skincare ingredients.
Retinol
Is there any skincare ingredient as celebrated as retinol, which is backed by studies that show it can boost your skin’s collagen and help minimize fine lines and wrinkles. This vitamin A derivative has been around for decades, according to Dr. Karam, who says this ingredient thickens skin over time compared to those who don’t use retinol, and this helps make your skin look younger. Retinol also helps reduce melanin production in the skin, which brightens the skin and helps prevent dark spots.
One problem with retinol that Dr. Karam mentions is that some people report sensitivity to the ingredient and may stop using it prematurely. Talk to your dermatologist about a retinol formulation that works for you, as well as how you can incorporate a hydrating serum or cream that combats the drying effects of retinol.
Vitamin C
This antioxidant works similarly to retinol in that stimulates collagen and helps reduce melanin, Dr. Karam says. If you have trouble using vitamin C and retinol together because they are sensitizing, you can always apply a vitamin C serum in the morning, prior to your moisturizer and sunscreen, and retinol at night.
Hyaluronic Acid
This “sponge-like” ingredient provides “immediate gratification,” according to Dr. Karam, because it absorbs water and plumps up your skin to improve its hydration levels. Hyaluronic Acid is found in countless serums (at all price points), as well as in moisturizers and eye creams. Plus, it goes hand in hand with retinol and vitamin C — apply a layer of HA after one of these active ingredients to soothe and smoothen your skin.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is a vitamin B derivative that helps decrease inflammation and redness, minimize the appearance of large pores, and hydrate. Dr. Karam says he considers it an important part of any skincare routine. You can apply a niacinamide serum in the morning or evening (or both).
Peptides
“Peptides” is probably the most modern buzzword on this list, but it has caught on and is fast becoming a mainstay on vanities. A serum or moisturizer with peptides can boost collagen production and defy the natural negative decline of collage, while improving skin tone and texture. Which is all to say: it’s one special ingredient that helps defy the effects of age on your skin.
One last special mention has to be given here to a skincare ingredient that Dr. Karam reminds us is probably the most important of all: sunscreen. If you aren’t applying SPF each and every day and are then exposing your skin to damaging UV rays and expecting retinol or vitamin C to pick up the slack, you’re basically spinning your wheels. Instead, make sure you conclude every morning skincare routine with a generous layer of SPF 30 or higher — each and every day (rain or shine).
